The gold, silver, and bronze medals have been awarded, signalling the conclusion of the Olympic Games. Although Milan Fashion Week (MFW) does not offer any prizes and the spectators have left Milan after the Olympics, it was time for editors, models, and buyers to gather as fashion's winter events commence. Last week was filled with runway shows, presentations, and parties, all accompanied by applause. All eyes were fixed on debuts at two industry heavyweights: Fendi and Gucci, but also for Meryll Rogge at Marni. And Emporio Armani presented its first collection under new creative directors Silvana Armani and Leo Dell’Orco, competing with established brands such as Ferragamo, Roberto Cavalli, and Bottega Veneta. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons remain fan favourites at Prada, while ACT N°1, Fila, and GCDS return to the schedule, promising to shake things up alongside a few newcomers ready to surprise. We have picked our favorites hence this only being a sub-set of alll the Italian Fashion labels which presented at this year FW Milan Fashion Week for 2026/27. Kicking off with Diesel and wrapping up with Giorgio Armani, the week promised to be as thrilling as the Milano Cortina Games.
Emporio Armani
This was the first Emporio Armani collection jointly presented by Giorgio Armani's designated design heirs, Silvana Armani and Leo Dell'Orco. They had previously shared that the plan was to transition from separate shows to a unified format, which Armani himself had conceived before his passing last year. His intention was to ensure that the men's and women's lines would feel cohesive once they arrived in stores. They showcased a vibrant 24/7 experience with a collection that featured a wide range of styles, from tailored jackets and topcoats to formal attire, catering to all fashion needs. Jackets varied from fluid silhouettes to shearling aviators and formal tailcoats, with a diverse range of coats, including topcoats and trench coats, as well as oversized white evening blouses. The runway included various character representations, reflecting the brand’s democratic Italian roots. Models walked two-by-two, dressed as hipsters and preppies, while women's wear included check jackets paired with 1970s-inspired miniskirts. The collection was rich in British menswear fabrics like tweed and houndstooth. Additionally, Armani and Dell’Orco revisited fan-favourite styles, including jewel-toned fur chubbies and fluid wool suits, creating a sense of continuity with a twist, meeting audience expectations beautifully.
Giorgio Armani
The Giorgio Armani Fall/Winter 2026–2027 collection, designed by Silvana Armani, exemplifies calm discipline and commitment to refinement. Emphasizing clarity, the collection features clean silhouettes, softened colours, and textures that interact beautifully with light. Silvana merges softness with architectural strength, opening with charcoal coats over loose cream trousers cinched by a striking red belt. A dove-grey coat over a pale blouse highlights tonal harmony and relaxed proportions. Outerwear includes a padded grey parka and fluid cream trousers, showing that elegance can include protection. The soft sage wrap draped over the shoulders embodies monastic purity and gentle asymmetry, aligning with Armani's philosophy of fabric movement. As the collection transitions to richer hues, burgundy silk and feathered textures introduce warmth, such as a crimson jacket with charcoal trousers. Velvet dominates evening looks, with a deep plum gown that emphasizes texture. The collection ends with shades of purple and blue iridescence, featuring strapless tops and embroidered ensembles. Silvana excels in using colour to reflect the theme of freedom within discipline - including the use of the pantone colour of Cloud Dancer and the inclusion of burgundy. So need to ditch our last season burgundy leather accessories! With wide trousers and unstructured coats, the 2026–2027 collection distils Armani’s essence into elegance without pressure and confidence without noise. And very wearable. A delight!
Fendi
"Less I, More Us" was the mantra showcased on the runway and some bags during Maria Grazia Chiuri's debut show as chief creative officer at Fendi. This theme emphasised togetherness and collaboration, while also marking Chiuri's strong influence on the presentation. Her return to Fendi, where she had previously worked from 1988 to 1999, was highly anticipated after Kim Jones's departure in October 2024. However, the reviews have been mixed. While some expected a dramatic overhaul like recent shifts at Chanel and Dior, Chiuri presented a series of all-black looks—crisp shirts, lace skirts, sheer panels, and double-breasted jackets—that, though wearable, lacked the brand’s characteristic sense of fun. Some animal prints and fur elements, and the return of the Baguette bag- but elegantly crafted Baguette bags, featuring exquisite handwork in calm, muted colours—offering a refreshing reset. This collection, unmistakably by Grazia Chiuri, reflects her nine-year tenure at Dior and her talent for the understated. Instead of confronting the fur controversy directly, she introduced a program that allows customers to repurpose existing Fendi furs with the brand's atelier, showcasing her pragmatic approach. Accessories and particularely bags being criticial to the Fashion Brand's image, presented as part of Maria Grazia Chiuri's first FENDI collection, customers have the unique opportunity to discover the Baguette® 26424, a return to the icon's original silhouette, now available for pre-order for a limited time .
Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons drew inspiration from life’s complexities and layering for their Fall 2026 collection. The designs featured intriguing layering, unconventional proportions, and a blend of classic pieces, like trench coats, with quirky details such as bejewelled linings. Tailored coats were paired with vibrant scarves and oversized cuffs, while one standout piece was a bright yellow, cropped parka cape resembling a life vest. The collection redefined classic combinations of sweaters and midi skirts and highlighted layering with clashing materials, such as thick leather against sheer skirts. The show featured 15 models, each showcasing four layered looks that represented how women adapt their outfits throughout the day. A pink dress revealed a striped scarf underneath, embodying the designers' focus on emotion through dramatic fusions. Deconstruction elements, such as intentional wrinkles and rips, complemented the vibrant floral prints and layered skirts. Raf Simons updated 1950s-style dresses with sporty plunging zippers, while shirts were worn open, presenting a blend of structured and casual pieces. Prada's collection embraced intentionally imperfect dressing, showcasing the everyday woman’s journey from morning to night with rapid outfit changes. The clever approach to cost-per-wear stood out amid rising prices and heightened consumer awareness. Each season, Miuccia and Raf set the tone for fashion trends, influencing street style with bold colours, unique skirts, and quirky accessories, including statement costume jewelry and of course their IT bags.
Gucci
Nearly a year has passed since Demna was appointed creative director of Gucci. Known for his work at Balenciaga and Vetements, Demna has injected new creativity into the brand. Over the last six months, he explored Gucci’s archives and shared his vision through his La Famiglia and Generation Gucci collections, the latter of which included a film directed by Spike Jonze starring Demi Moore. In December 2025, Demna described his Gucci aesthetic as "body-conscious for both boys and girls." This was highlighted during a show at Palazzo Delle Scintille, which featured replicas of Roman sculptures. The collection balanced "wearability" with the allure of the Tom Ford era, but showcasing styles reminiscent of past Versace designs. In the front row, fashion icons like Donatella Versace and Alessandro Michele mingled with guests, including Moore and Shawn Mendes. Demna emphasised the importance of fun in Gucci’s identity, particularly for Gen Z, noting the brand’s association with flamboyance and nightlife. The runway featured a mix of established models and newcomers like Nettspend, showcasing both men's and women's attire. The designs offered a sensual vibe, with notable pieces like Kate Moss’s striking thong-style dress. Kering CEO Luca de Meo praised the collection’s quality and recognised codes, viewing it as a bold step forward for the brand. As the show concluded, Moss’s outfit perfectly encapsulated Demna’s playful aesthetic. Accessories shown off on the runway, included Horsebit pointed heels, Mask Sun Glasses and the Horsebit Ristretto bag as well as the large Bamboo Tote bag.
Missoni
The Missoni women confidently walked the fall 2026 runway, where creative director Alberto Caliri emphasised attitude over patterns. The collection featured bold shoulders and a focus on outerwear, showcasing roomy martingale coats, oversized shearling jackets, and patterned bombers, all enhanced by tailored pants and leather Bermudas. Backstage, Caliri referred to archival images from a 1978 Missoni presentation that first showcased both women’s and men’s collections together. He balanced the masculine appeal of the collection with midi-length dresses that mimicked two-piece ensembles, featuring loose tops and form-fitting bottoms. These knitted dresses, along with jacquard textiles woven with Lurex and sequins, highlighted Caliri’s preference for uncomplicated yet striking designs, offering stylish options for sophisticated daywear. Refreshing to see the striped patterns instead of the customary zigzag pattern; in combination with tweet and the colour of the year: cloud dancer.
Ferregamo
Mixed reviews of Maximilian Davis's fall Ferragamo collection with its take on nautical chic, featuring voluptuous pea coats, middy-collar tops, and navy sailor trousers partially unbuttoned to reveal a triangle of white lining. He showcased roomy tailored coats with detachable, dramatic collars, white shirts with removable collars, and skirt suits with panels that could be buttoned up or left open for a more daring look. Apparently drawing inspiration from the 1920s, Davis referenced artist Charles Demuth, who depicted sailors and flappers in speakeasies. The show’s semi-circular venue, draped in midnight-blue curtains, added to the collection's allure, culminating in gold lamé cocktail dresses, charming flapper slips, and loose hobble gowns with fishtail hems. Daytime looks featured subtle military influences and unexpected colours like orange and teal, while quilted leather barn jackets with twist-lock Gancini hardware and costume jewellery exuded luxury, including the obligatory Gancini bags.
Tods
Creative director Matteo Tamburini showcased a confident fall collection for Tod’s titled “Italian Signature,” featuring personalised lettering and local craftsmanship. Leather remains central, presented in innovative forms like foulard dresses with graphic patchworks inspired by Sterling Ruby and printed with snowy landscapes by Daido Moriyama. The collection also revisits 1990s styles, including tailored power dresses and pony hair used in capes, peacoats, and Gommino sneakers. Accessories include the Tod’s Wave Bag with signature topstitching and the T Timeless Bag in various leathers, along with a new bowling version of the Di Bag. Tamburini emphasised contrasts between enveloping silhouettes and tailored pieces, evident in knits with shortened sleeves. Oversized trench coats complement tight, stretch-wool breeches, while the colour palette features rich tones like burnt caramel and chocolate, balanced with black and white accents for a cohesive, striking look.
Max Mara
Classifying Max Mara simply as quiet luxury fails to capture the depth of its creative direction under Ian Griffiths. He draws inspiration from compelling historical figures and unique design elements. This season, Griffiths emphasized durability with a touch of Gothic chic—not dark, but reflective of endurance and intellect. The collection can be seen as the ideal armour for modern women in 2026. “Max Mara is not about fast fashion,” he stated. “It is about beautiful clothes built to last a lifetime.” This season’s collection included robe-like coats, austere tunics, and tall suede boots, showcasing medieval influences through rich textures and warm colours that conveyed both coziness and soft power. The 1980s also appeared with rounded shoulders on shearling boleros and knit dresses, a nod that has frequently emerged in discussions about Milan's fashion scene. Notably, 1981 marked the launch of Max Mara's iconic 101801 coat.
Etro
Marco de Vincenzo views Etro as an ongoing journey that revisits the brand's textile roots and escapist spirit. The Fall 2026 collection began with restrained, masculine tailoring influenced by British styles, featuring feather-trimmed suits and tartan scarves. As the show progressed, the silhouettes evolved into bold, vibrant patterns and textures, culminating in a maximalist explosion. The theme, "Etro-sity," reflects the idea of collecting experiences and creating dialogue between distant worlds, showcased through contrasts of tartans, trompe l’oeil prints, and paisley patterns. Highlights include unique details like feather trims, small sea-wolf coats, and shimmering sequins. “Our woman discovers something new as she travels,” de Vincenzo noted, with her eclectic choices highlighted by furry coats and ruffled dresses. Accessories like embroidered pouches and velvet sandals completed the collection, emphasizing that Etro transcends both geographical and stylistic boundaries. “This brand is founded on escapism; you belong to our world if you embrace the idea of going somewhere else,” he concluded.
Genny
Genny showcased its Fall-Winter 2026/2027 collection at Milan Fashion Week on February 26, 2026, under the creative direction of Sara Cavazza Facchini. The collection explored Italian elegance, combining contemporary tailoring with feminine glamour. The collection features masculine elements—sharp blazers, structured waistcoats, impeccable trousers, and high-collared shirts—reinterpreted for women. The silhouette is vertical and composed, with a sculptural floral motif emerging from the tailored designs. Three-dimensional petals transform into corolla skirts, while the sleek bodice contrasts with the dynamic, nature-inspired lower portion. Discret Animal prints and beautiful sparkling and feathery details and new bag designs.
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