Ferrara, a city rich in courts and enlightenment, has embraced this anniversary as a cherished tradition. Over the centuries, the Este court transformed the city into a vibrant center for arts and letters, becoming the heartbeat of Italian humanism. Today, Makorè, the famous Michelin-Star Restaurant in Ferrara, continues this symbolic legacy by turning the culture of dining into a collective artistic experience. To celebrate Makoré's tenth anniversary, Chef Denny Lodi Rizzini has reimagined a historic recipe for his new Decennale menu: the Pasticcio estense. This pastry combines elements from 16th-century Este pastry with influences from Renaissance banquets. Chef Rizzini has confidently eliminated the meat, yet preserved the creamy and buttery flavors using deactivated brewer's yeast and a craquelin made with 36-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano. As a result, he has created a plant-based, meatless version of the dish. Despite the changes, it remains delicious and indulgent, so much so that you won't miss the original recipe. Ultimately, this dish encapsulates the identity of the restaurant on Via Palestro in Ferrara, highlighting a commitment to tradition and local produce while emphasizing creativity and innovation.
"It's a menu that reflects who we are today and who we want to become," says the chef. "We aim for a cuisine that is balanced and neither complex nor harsh. We work instinctively with raw ingredients, relying on our experiences and senses. There are no standard recipes; it's about the human touch, from me and my team." Federico Fugaroli, the owner of Makoré, notes a pivotal change that took place three years ago. "Since Rizzini took over, we've entered a new chapter. His cuisine has become coherent and full of character, emphasizing the sourcing of raw materials. We started as a good local restaurant focused on local cuisine, and that has remained our focus for the past five years."
Denis Rizzini, initially Federico Belluco's assistant, took charge in 2022, bringing fresh ideas and quickly gaining the city's support. One of his successful initiatives was the blind menu, which 85 percent of customers now choose. The Blinde is a blind tasting menu offered in four, six, or eight courses, priced from €50 to €90. The Decennale, a signature ten-course menu, includes the "Estense Pastry." It pairs well with the low-alcohol cocktail "Rotta sulla Via Emilia," crafted by sommelier Isacco Giuli, featuring organic Rwandan black tea and Emilian ingredients like Saba Ferrarese, Fortana grape liqueur, Bolognese mostarda, and Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. Among the new dishes is the reimagined "Filetto alla Rossini," featuring amberjack cooked over coals, paired with foie gras au torchon, freshly grated horseradish, and beef jus.
The dessert, the "Tagliatella Cake" by pastry chef Valerio De Santis, includes a hazelnut-infused Bacio di Dama base, fried and oven-dried tagliatelle coated in white chocolate and hazelnut cream, and an almond cheesecake biscuit adorned with a medallion of Lucrezia Borgia. As a unique feature, bread is served as its own course, positioned between the appetiser and pasta. This includes crispy focaccia, the aromatic coppietta alla ferrarese with Parmigiano Reggiano, and a slice of bread made with biga dough, leavened for 36 hours with olive oil from Frantoio Valsanterno. This homage to Ferrara, known as the city of bread, highlights its rich culinary heritage.
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