There’s much talk about the deseasonalization of tourism, particularly starting in September when the summer crowds have diminished. In the Sinis Peninsula, which boasts over 8,000 years of civilized history, autumn arrives gradually. From September to October, the quartz beaches of Is Arutas and Maimoni become quiet, with kiosks closing and parking lots empty. The sounds of tourists fade, replaced by the wind rustling the sand and the sea darkening. This period is an ideal time to explore the Oristano peninsula, which reveals its true beauty in autumn, far more than it does in the summer. The beaches of the Sinis Peninsula are the region's gems. From the cliffs of Cape San Marco to the sand dunes of Is Arenas, visitors can enjoy the turquoise waters of San Giovanni di Sinis, the quartz beaches of Maimoni, Mari Ermi, and Is Aruttas, and the cliffs of Su Tingiosu. Capo Mannu, a popular surfing hotspot, and the crystal-clear waters of S’anea Scoada and Putzu Idu complete this stunning coastal experience.
This period is an ideal time to explore the Oristano peninsula, which reveals its true beauty in autumn, far more than it does in the summer. At the center of it all is water. The Cabras Pond and the Mistras Lagoon are not merely natural landscapes; they are also key to local identity. In the Sinis, water is closely tied to the economy as well. The traditional fishing of mullet, eels, sea bass, and gilt-head bream continues to follow ancient cycles, passed down by the cooperatives that manage the fishponds. Andrea Abis, mayor of Cabras and co-founder of the Mont'e Prama Foundation, describes the Sinis region as a heritage-rich area. He highlights its remarkable ecosystem, which includes a lagoon over 2,000 meters wide, contributing to a diverse natural and culinary heritage, notably the bottarga.
Bottarga, made from mullet caught in local ponds and processed using ancient methods, is celebrated as the "gold of the Sinis." It symbolizes the region's ecosystem and is featured prominently at the annual Bottarga Festival. In local cuisine, it plays a key role in dishes like fregola with clams, smoked mullet carpaccio, and merca—fish boiled and wrapped in ziba grass, a technique that blends tradition with culinary innovation. In autumn, the Sinis region’s rice evokes memories of the significant transformations that took place throughout the twentieth century. A significant part of this history is linked to the Tirso basin. During the twenty years of Fascist rule, the construction of the Tirso dam was completed. This project significantly altered the water availability in the region, enabling the intensive irrigation of rice fields in Campidano, extending to the outskirts of Cabras and the Oristano area. The rice grown in the well-defined paddy fields, which supply most of the Venere rice sold in Italy, has become a part of the autumn landscape.
Vernaccia di Oristano DOC embodies the patience of Flor yeasts, which develop naturally during the vinification process of the wine. This wine is aged in half-full chestnut barrels, allowing it to mature with a touch of magic over the decades. It captures the essence of the saltiness and the air of the lagoon. You can't talk about Vernaccia di Oristano DOC—originating from the Sinis region—without referencing Tharros and the archaeological excavations that uncovered hundreds of perfectly preserved grape seeds. Alongside Vernaccia, Nieddera—an indigenous grape from the Oristano area—offers a more vibrant personality, especially in its rosé version, which pairs perfectly with lagoon fish dishes. Some young producers are revitalizing this forgotten grape, believing it can showcase the most spontaneous character of the Sinis region.
Tharros was founded by the Phoenicians around the 8th century BC, several centuries after Cuccuru is Arrius. It stands as a significant testament to Phoenician presence in Sardinia, featuring two distinct necropolises and a Tophet, an important sanctuary. After the Phoenicians' defeat in the Third Punic War, the Romans settled in the area, leaving notable cultural remnants, including a well-preserved Roman bath. Cabras proudly hosts a museum established in 1997, showcasing artifacts from prehistoric times to the Middle Ages, primarily from archaeological sites in the Sinis Peninsula, including Cuccuru is Arrius, Sa Osa, and Tharros. San Salvatore di Sinis is located along the route to Is Arutas Beach. This medieval village was built on a sacred site from the Nuragic civilization, with evidence of early settlement dating back to the Nuragic Age. The original sanctuary was later transformed into a Roman temple after the Roman conquest of Sardinia.
Experiencing the peninsula in autumn also means embracing a slower pace. From Cabras to San Giovanni di Sinis transforms into a exploratory journey: on one side, the pond; on the other, the vineyards and dry-stone walls; and ahead, the sea suddenly unfolds. This is the season of festivals, the Bottarga Festival was held on September 19-21 and there are fairs dedicated to the spiny artichoke, as well as tastings of extra virgin olive oil from the nearby Montiferru. These occasions foster community, where food and wine become a shared narrative, and Sardinia generously reveals its treasures. It's an invitation to return, not just to see more, but to listen—and savor—more deeply.
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