Impressions from the Spring/Summer 2026 Collections - Part One

Instead of a traditional runway show, Demna launched a new era for the brand by releasing a lookbook titled "La Famiglia" on September 22 on Instagram and premiered a film called *The Tiger* on the opening night. Directed by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn, the film featured a cast including Demi Moore, Elliot Page, and Gwyneth Paltrow, who wore looks from the spring 2026 collection as they posed for photographers. *The Tiger* showcases themes from the lookbook of 38 archetypal personas, opening with Moore's portrayal of Barbara Gucci, the iconic heiress. The film combines dark comedy and reality, focusing on Barbara’s chaotic birthday celebration with her family and a *Vanity Fair* writer. As the evening unfolds, chaos erupts when a wellness tincture mixes with alcohol, highlighting the quest for perfection within a powerful family dynamic. Each character showcases new collection pieces, described by the brand as an expression of the “Gucciness” of Gucci. 

Silvia Venturini Fendi's latest collection for Fendi moves away from quiet luxury, introducing bold colours, floral prints, and striking accessories. Set to launch around the 2026 Olympic Winter Games in Milan-Cortina, the collection features psychedelic florals and ’90s influences, aiming to "elevate the everyday." Key pieces include silk faille track jackets, perforated leather anoraks, and vibrant combinations of sporty and chic styles, like tracksuits paired with high-waisted bikini briefs. Standout designs incorporate lavish embroideries and sequins in bags, while colours range from bubble-gum pink and Yves Klein blue to bright yellow. Fendi emphasizes craftsmanship with textured pieces and encourages embracing vibrant hues in fashion, reminding us that a splash of colour is much needed in today’s cultural climate.

The world is currently divided and filled with tension. In this context, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons showcased their Spring 2026 Prada collection in Milan, presenting two contrasting characters: dystopian workers in structured boiler suits and reborn debutantes in crystal-studded gowns with intentionally wrinkled bubble hems. Its collection was inspired by uniforms but brought glamour to the Milan show with boxy shirts, pleated trousers, puffball skirts, and satin opera gloves. While global conflicts and military displays make uniforms a controversial choice, Miuccia Prada remains drawn to their elegance. The show kicked off with a boxy short-sleeve shirt featuring buttoned pockets—the kind typically adorned with insignia or name badges, but in this case, highlighted with Prada’s iconic triangle logo. 

Thursday's collection for Emporio Armani, the brand's more affordable label, marked the first catwalk show since the passing of its founder. After the show, models led the audience in applause as Silvana Armani, the founder's niece and head of womenswear design, took a bow in her uncle’s honor. The collection included a sleeveless tailored coatdress adorned with ruffled organza epaulettes, reflecting the frilled lace cuffs that Giorgio Armani was known for. Floral prints were reimagined in shades of grey. Silvana Griffiths, the designer, stated, "My job is to create clothes that make women feel powerful, and fussy clothes don’t achieve that. Garments that are overly complicated and difficult to wear detract from your power." 

The collection offered a sophisticated interpretation of Emporio's style, featuring lightweight robe coats, loose bohemian vests, ribbed cotton jackets, and puckered silk shirts. These pieces were paired with wide-leg trousers or harem pants that showcased his signature ikat prints. Sporty elements were also incorporated, such as drawstring backs on tailored jackets and scooter skirts. The footwear ranged from low-heeled to flat shoes, including boots. Soft layers of sheer silk added a delicate touch, with periwinkle windbreakers, peach flowing skirts, and an eye-catching strapless dress in seafoam green, cinched at the waist with a black obi belt.

Dolce & Gabbana showcased a collection that transformed pajamas into high fashion. The creative directors took classic, menswear-inspired sets and added modern flair. Some pieces featured sharp lines for a sophisticated look, while others sported a relaxed, oversized fit. Adorned with crystals, these sleepwear essentials became bold statement pieces. Models wore faux fur slides and oversized faux fur coats, merging the comfort of home with fashion. 

Lorenzo Serafini has designed the perfect wardrobe for comfortable living and stylish entertaining at the Alberta Ferretti showroom, which features wall-to-wall cream carpeting. Drawing inspiration from the 1970s hostess Tina Chow, Serafini infused the collection with Italian flair, showcasing airy caftans, kimono-like dresses, and loose pyjama pants. These pieces are accessorized with pebble-studded moccasins, suggesting that the hostess is ready to dash out for more wine if needed.  “I envisioned a wardrobe that is ideal for staying home, surrounded by loved ones,” he stated, emphasizing comfort and ease. Unlike many spring collections that can feel stiff, Serafini’s designs are ultra-light with flowing, scarf-like constructions. The colour palette begins with cream and evolves into blush pinks and pale mint, all accented by beautifully pleated dresses. Serafini took over the brand just a year ago after a decade at Philosophy, which is now integrated into Alberta Ferretti. In a recent interview, he cited “timeless elegance, whispered femininity, and a celebration of individuality” as the key qualities of the Italian fashion house.