From fried sole "linguate" to cuddironi, Andrea Camilleri loved food and the table, which served as a space for connection and exchange. Writer Luca Crovi retraces the life and passion for food and wine of this great author in his biography, *Andrea Camilleri*. Food in Camilleri' novels is often depicted as a point of arrival. After a thorny investigation, a romantic quarrel, or a hard day, Montalbano—like all Italians—loved to eat. Gathering with his community at the table, savouring the flavours of his homeland, and being pampered by recipes that evoke family and roots were central to his character. This literary affection is due to Camilleri's own legacy, which transformed food into an opportunity to explore and recount Sicilian culture and beyond. His love for food was so profound that it encouraged Montalbano to indulge in his favourite dishes, even when health issues made certain ingredients off limits.
For enthusiasts, curious readers, and admirers of Camilleri, Luca Crovi's biography, *Andrea Camilleri: Una storia* is a treasure trove of previously unpublished anecdotes that delve into Camilleri's special relationship with food, tracing back to his childhood. This book not only follows the great Sicilian writer's life step by step but also uncovers a wealth of delicious food and wine stories about him. Crovi's meticulous work draws on his unique relationship with the Sicilian master. During his lifetime, Camilleri often confessed to Crovi that he enjoyed having Inspector Montalbano indulge in all the traditional Sicilian dishes he could no longer eat due to his age and dietary restrictions. Some of his favourite dishes included pasta 'ncasciata, sarde a beccafico, arancini and eggplant parmigiana.
One of Inspector Montalbano's many favorite dishes is "La pasta 'ncasciata."
Adelina, his loyal and long-time housekeeper, had cooked for him. So the hungry Montalbano found "La pasta 'ncasciata" in the oven. "A portion for four! He ate it slowly and persistently. Then, because the day allowed, he sat down on the veranda. He needed to think. But he didn't think. Soon, he gently dozed off to the sound of the surf. Thank God I'm not a crocodile, otherwise I'd drown in my tears." That was the last sensible or nonsensical thing that went through his head.
(From "The Cavalier of the Late Hour," page 194, by Andrea Camillleri).
Adelina's recipe for La Pasta 'Ncasicata
Adelina's recipe for the meatballs
200g ground beef; 2 tablespoons grated, day-old bread or breadcrumbs; 1 beaten egg; Chopped parsley, if desired; 2 tablespoons grated pecorino;
1/4 glass fruity white wine; Extra virgin olive oil, if desired; 50ml tomato sauce; Sea salt; Pepper
... and for the pasta
350g macaroni; 100g caciocavallo; 100g salami;
3 hard-boiled eggs; 2 medium eggplants; 800ml freshly prepared tomato sauce; 150g grated pecorino; 1 sprig basil; Extra virgin olive oil; Sea salt
Preparation: Mix the ground meat with 2 tablespoons of pecorino cheese, breadcrumbs, the beaten egg, the parsley, salt, and pepper. Form the meatballs and fry them in a little oil. Then, almost at the end of cooking, add the wine and let it evaporate. Add the tomato sauce and simmer for a good hour. Slice the eggplants, sprinkle with salt, and set aside to drain the liquid. After about an hour, drain well, squeeze lightly, and fry in olive oil. Then drain on absorbent paper. Cook the pasta in salted water for just over half the cooking time indicated on the package. Drain and toss with 800ml of tomato sauce and 50g of pecorino. Let's start by assembling the pasta layers by placing some of the macaroni in a well-greased gratin dish, followed by the polpette, the tomato sauce, the eggplant slices, the caciacavallo, the diced salami, the hard-boiled eggs, the pecorino cheese, and the basil. Now, repeat this process until a final layer of macaroni is formed, which is then covered with a generous amount of pecorino cheese. Bake in a preheated oven at 200°C until the pasta surface is crispy and the cheese is not completely melted. Buon Appetito!
Grazie a Cucchiaio Siciliano !
However, the standout was fried sole, which he affectionately called "linguate," reminiscent of the enormous ones he and his father ate during bombings. Another cherished dish was "munnizza," which he learned to prepare from his grandmother Elvira.
"This dish was created in 1943 because the family was tired of eating vegetables and asked Grandma Elvira to cook something different," Crovi shared. After hours of preparation, she served a colorful panettone made of eggs, potatoes, vegetables, and sailor's biscuits soaked in water, artfully arranged alongside slices of linole. Grandma Elvira named it munnizza, which became a traditional family dish, alongside cuddironi—a large stuffed calzone that Camilleri lovingly prepared for years in his home in Santa Fiora on Mount Amiata, taking it to the village oven to be baked. A man of the theatre, he recognised the table not only as a stage for goodness but also as a catalyst for emotions, serving as an outlet for the vices and virtues of Italian families. It is no wonder his characters have such an affinity for food, which carries with it cultural significance—from the harvesting of raw materials in fields and at sea with fishing, to the kitchen, a chosen space for exchanging affection and secrets.
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