Ippolito Cavalcanti documented the combination of pasta and tomato sauce in his 1837 work "Cucina teorico-pratica." In the section written in dialect, he included the recipe for "viermicielli co le pommadore" - Vermicelli with tomato sauce. The 19th century marked the rise of the tomato, with terms like pommarola becoming synonymous with sauce. During this era, the Fiaschetto, also known as Re Fiascone, tomato emerged, recognised for its firm flesh and ideal balance of sweetness and acidity. By the end of the century, it became popular among Campanian farmers for its robust yields, enhancing the landscape around Naples. In 1878, the tomato was named in honour of Umberto I of Savoy during his visit, and it was referred to as the "King Umberto tomato" in the 1885 English edition of "Les plantes potagères." Its cultivation declined over time, overshadowed by the resilient San Marzano variety, making the Fiascone a rare niche product today.
The Acarbio association in Tramonti is dedicated to preserving the region's agricultural heritage by collaborating with local farmers to recover original seeds of the Re Fiascone tomato and working to restore the threatened terraces of the Amalfi Coast. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the terraced landscape features dry-stone walls constructed from tuff stone, as well as vegetable gardens, lemon groves, vineyards, and chestnut trees. A complex water system of canals and cisterns supports this area, which is at risk of vanishing. These terraces are vital for water management and erosion prevention.
A new travel concept encourages active participation, promoting inland routes for meaningful experiences that enhance well-being. This philosophy is embodied in the partnership between ACARBIO and the Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel, a historic 13th-century convent. They focus on protecting the local area, with the "Dollars for Deeds" program allocating a portion of booking proceeds to support projects preserving rural communities and culture, turning travelers into guardians of beautiful places. The convent has long served as a place of hospitality, study, and healing. The friars cultivated medicinal herbs, produced cheeses, and created famous bitters. They also developed iconic Campanian dishes like anchovy sauce, minestra maritata, laganelle with zucchini and eggs, chestnut soup, and chocolate-filled eggplant, enriching both body and soul.
In the kitchen of Claudio Lanuto, executive chef of the "Dei Cappuccini" restaurant, a culinary journey highlights a blend of agricultural and monastic heritage. A standout dish is spaghetti with "Re Fiascone" tomatoes from Tramonti, symbolizing simplicity and identity. The menu also features "viermicielli co le pommadore" (veal with tomatoes) and the "Convent Menu," which showcases refined traditional recipes, including a pasta and potato dish with clams, legumes with stewed cod, Controne beans with amberjack, escarole with cuttlefish, and a risotto with red shrimp and oregano-infused pizzaiola sauce. Cannelloni is a must-try dish, invented in 1924 by chef Salvatore Coletta at the Hotel Cappuccini during a culinary competition. The classic recipe features minced meat and variations with potatoes, fennel, provola cheese, and scampi, highlighting the Amalfi Coast's blend of coastal and rural flavours.
This region, with its charming villages and lush landscape, invites a deeper appreciation beyond the tourist hustle, focusing on preserving local culture and flavours. In a time when the Amalfi Coast's economy often prioritises immediate, seasonal profits and tourism is dictated by haste, a different approach emerges—one that emphasises preserving the uniqueness of these places through care for the landscape, the people, and the local flavours. Here, that sentiment can still be experienced in tangible ways: walking among the dry-stone walls, savouring a historically significant tomato, and rediscovering the authentic echoes of centuries of culture in a single dish.
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