Puglia's culinary scene is deeply rooted in its fertile land and extensive coastline, showcasing a cuisine that emphasizes fresh, local ingredients and traditional dishes. Often called the "breadbasket of Italy," Puglia offers a diverse range of culinary experiences, from rustic trattorias serving "cucina povera" to fine dining restaurants with stunning sea views.
A little-known village in Puglia, Ceglie Messapica, is home to Michelin-starred restaurants and family-run trattorias, earning it the title of the region’s ‘gastronomic capital.’ Located in the heart of Puglia, Ceglie Messapica features charming white streets and centres its lifestyle around food, land, and traditions. It serves as a refreshing stopover, far from the hustle and bustle of tourist towns, offering some of the best cuisine in the area.
This historic town in Puglia dates to the Messapes, a pre-Roman civilization from around 700 BC. Ancient remnants, including a Cyclopean wall, can be found beneath olive trees and along narrow streets. The town is organized in concentric circles around its castle, fostering a relaxed lifestyle. Here, ochre stone meets blue sky, and the scent of basil drifts from flower-filled balconies. The layout features winding alleyways and squares with chairs inviting locals to relax in the shade. The baroque bell tower of the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta overlooks this charming village.
The International School of Mediterranean Gastronomy has established itself in Ceglie Messapica. The school, named after the late restaurateur Angelo Ricci, is directed by his daughter, Michelin-starred chef Antonella Ricci. It offers training for both professional chefs and cooking enthusiasts. The village possesses an extraordinary culinary heritage, blending traditional country recipes with the skills of talented chefs. Her or their restaurant is based in the Centro Storico of Ceglie Messapica. The local specialty? The biscotto cegliese, a small biscuit made with almonds, black cherry jam, and local liqueur, often prepared by hand and protected by the Slow Food label.
Ceglie offers a wealth of savoury dishes as well. Brasciola, a rolled veal cutlet simmered in tomato sauce, boasts an unmatched depth of flavour. Friselle, hard bread soaked in oil and topped with tomatoes, is an essential starter for summer meals. Orecchiette di Ceglie Messapica with turnip tops is a typical dish from Puglia, and consists of fresh orecchiette seasoned with turnip tops sautéed in a pan with garlic, extra virgin olive oil and, sometimes, anchovies and chilli pepper.
Ceglie Messapica is not just a living museum of Italian cuisine; it is a vibrant community of flavours, featuring refined Michelin Star establishments alongside local, rustic restaurants. Hidden culinary gems such as Cibus, a refined establishment set in a former convent; or Trattoria Piaceri e Tradizioni, where the simplicity of the dishes allows the quality of the ingredients to shine; and Da Gino, a rustic retreat nestled along a country road.
Andrea Catalano - Dissapore Ristorante Carovigno
There are also a number of Michelin-Star restaurants in or near Ceglie Messapica. For example Andrea Catalano - Dissapore Ristorante; where you can savor exquisite Apulian cuisine, filled with classic local recipes that highlight excellent raw materials and distinctive flavours. Highly recommended dishes include "purely instinctive" scampi with pepper and saffron. To complement the eclectic cuisine crafted by Chef Andrea, a selection of Apulian, Italian, and international wines is available. You'll also receive excellent service led by the welcoming and charismatic Franca. In the summer, enjoy the open-air terrace that overlooks the rooftops with a beautiful sea view!
Vinilia Wine Resort - Casamatta Restaurant
Just a few kilometers from Manduria, the capital of Primitivo wine, lies the Vinilia Wine Resort, set in a beautiful early 20th-century castle surrounded by ancient olive trees. The Casamatta restaurant, a highlight of the venue, boasts a bright dining area with large windows opening to a terrace. Chef Pietro Penna, with experience from top restaurants, celebrates local cuisine with dishes featuring regional ingredients from the resort’s garden. The menu includes three tasting options, including a vegetarian choice. A standout item is the lamb, complemented by a remarkable lamb giblet pie in expertly crafted puff pastry.
Ristorante Due Camini - Borgo Egnazia
Located within Borgo Egnazia, one of the most exclusive and luxurious hotels in the region and beyond, Chef Domingo Schingaroof Ristorante Due Camini elevates the essence of Apulian cuisine, particularly its rich vegetable-based dishes. He collaborates closely with local growers and explores ancient botanical varieties, presenting the ingredients in various preparations that highlight every part while minimizing waste. The elegant presentations and intense flavors are sure to impress even non-vegetarians, complemented by attentive, precise, and genuinely hospitable service. Some of the most famous dishes include the "Gnummareddi di agnello", a reinterpretation of a local street food, and dishes based on tomatoes, aubergines and courgettes, with innovative preparations. Other standouts are the risotto Egnazia Vermouth Rosso, oyster and sea herbs and the tagliolini of yellow turnip, raisins, pine nuts and fennel.
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