Let's explore highlights from Italian designers at Pitti Uomo and Milan Men's Fashion Week 2026. Prada’s summer collection featured a calm vibe with micro shorts, wave-patterned shirts, and raffia hats reminiscent of the 70s. Giorgio Armani offered a luxurious yet casual look, while Dolce & Gabbana's "Pajama Party" theme emphasized comfort with vibrant prints.
Etro stood out with elegant, detailed prints in linen, and Brunello Cucinelli showcased luxurious blends of wool, cashmere, silk, and linen. In a villa garden, Tod's "Gommino Club" featured models lounging by the pool, complemented by a Lamborghini, highlighting the brand's luxury image. Tod’s Spring-Summer 2026 Collection centered on "the lightness of an Italian summer," featuring the iconic Gommino. The collection included streamlined silhouettes and lightweight garments, such as unstructured blazers, bombers in soft Pashmina, and relaxed safari jackets.
Prada
Prada's show at Fondazione Prada's Deposito featured ample natural light and aimed to convey a gentle, calm vibe for next summer's menswear, amid rising global tensions. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons wanted to shift the focus from aggression to simplicity. "We tried to change the tone from powerful to gentle," Prada stated after the show. The collection expressed surreal escapism, showcasing micro shorts, wave-patterned shirts, and windswept raffia hats, all infused with a 1970s influence. It included a mix of classic, masculine pieces, such as double-breasted suits, reflecting both modern and nostalgic styles. Prada and Simons emphasised the ease of the clothing and their collaborative process, moving away from strict themes. "Everything worked with everything," Prada noted, while Simons described it as "the easiest collection I’ve ever done," aiming for a human, light, and colourful aesthetic.
Giorgio Armani
On Friday afternoon, Giorgio Armani's headquarters announced that the iconic designer would not be making his usual runway appearance at Milan Fashion Week due to recent hospitalization. Instead, Leo Dell’Orco, head of menswear, welcomed guests. But a statement confirmed that Mr. Armani had actively contributed to the collections being presented. Nobody embodies easy elegance quite like Giorgio Armani. In the Italian label's latest collection, there was a noticeable shift towards greater fluidity, marking a departure from their signature suiting. Double-breasted jackets with shawl collars were shortened, while trousers either tapered at the ankle or hung loosely toward the floor. The Emporio Armani show, held at the Tadao Ando-designed Teatro/Armani, showcased designs reflective of Mr. Armani’s signature style. Set against billowing beige curtains and sunbaked tiles, the collection explored themes of travel and escape. Inspired by various cultures, it featured wrapped silhouettes, carpet bags, tasselled jacquard jackets, and voluminous trousers, all hinting at northern African nomadic styles in a luxurious manner. The sporty EA7 looks debuted with such speed that some guests barely settled in their seats, portraying a modern desert wanderer with sleek, protective technical wear.
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana transformed Milan into a chic sleepover scene on Saturday with their Spring 2026 menswear collection. The presentation blurred the lines between loungewear and luxury, showcasing models in monogrammed robes, silky separates, and tailored pyjamas. The show exuded the brand's signature mix of comfort, sensuality, and showmanship, with the front row being just as captivating as the runway (Cristiano Caccamo, Villabanks etc.). Before the Dolce & Gabbana show at the Metropol venue in Milan, screens displayed models lounging in cotton pyjamas, reflecting a theme of Sunday-morning comfort and embracing warm weather. Titled “Pyjama Boys,” the Spring/Summer 2026 collection by Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce featured gently crumpled oversized tailoring, casual pyjama sets, and relaxed jackets in mock crocodile and leopard prints. Softness was emphasised through fluffy-edged parkas and pastel colours, showcasing a sweeter side of the brand. The designs included broad-shouldered, double-breasted jackets paired with pink pinstriped pants, highlighting the balance between work and leisure. The final looks featured pyjamas embellished with crystals and floral embroidery. A standout outfit showcased a crisp sky blue and white striped pyjama top tucked into white leather Bermuda shorts. The finale highlighted pyjama suits and shorts adorned with beaded floral embroidery, accompanied by fuzzy sliders and antique cameo brooches. The collection evoked a breezy summer vibe that felt especially appealing as the models stepped onto the sunlit street, greeted by enthusiastic fans.
Brunello Cucinelli
The Brunello Cucinelli showroom in Milan buzzed with press and retailers on a hot June afternoon, with excitement surrounding his collection but also the documentary film “Brunello,” premiering on December 4th, directed by Academy Award winner Giuseppe Tornatore. Cucinelli showcased his new collection, which featured longer jackets and wider lapels, paired with softer, voluminous pants. Drawing inspiration from the early '90s, the collection included deconstructed double-breasted jackets. Titled “The Shape of Light,” it highlighted blends of wool or cashmere with silk and linen, merging formal and informal styles. The color palette expanded beyond the usual neutrals to include orange, apricot, royal blue, coral, and cherry red. New items included a sporty fireman’s jacket with corduroy shorts, tailored leather jackets, zippered bomber jackets, and suits in varied patterns. Brunello Cucinelli embraced a relaxed style, showcasing classic separates in bold colours, inspired by the early '90s—a period often regarded as simpler. "The jacket is slightly shorter, while the trousers are higher and softer," the designer mentioned in an interview with CNN. Additionally, a new capsule collection of cocktail evening wear was introduced, featuring jackets with satin-free shawl lapels paired with silk-cotton knits.
Tods
Villa Necchi Campiglio in Milan is a symbol of refined Italian design and the perfect backdrop for Tod's menswear collection. This season, the Gommino Club was staged in the villa’s garden, where models relaxed on deck chairs by the pool, creating a convivial atmosphere complemented by a Lamborghini at the entrance, emphasizing the brand's luxury image. The setting provided a refreshing escape from the heat and reflected the collection's inspiration of leisure and outdoor living. Creative director Matteo Tamburini spoke about the essence of “the lightness of an Italian summer” as an invitation to relax. The Gommino, a timeless icon representing the Italian lifestyle, took center stage in the Tod's Men’s Spring-Summer 2026 Collection. The collection featured streamlined silhouettes and lightweight garments, including unstructured blazers and bombers made from soft Pashmy, relaxed safari jackets in linen, and travel-wool for outerwear and trousers. Tamburini focused on creating simple yet polished pieces. He described the collection to CNN as “relaxed elegance with a touch of sportswear.” Tamburini chose materials like compact linen, crepe cotton, and ultra-light wool, which he believed would be comfortable for movement.
Etro
Etro presented their Spring 2026 menswear collection at Pitti Uomo 108 via a showroom display, focusing on a more restrained and sophisticated interpretation of their signature style. The collection, designed by the in-house team, emphasized timeless wearability and a balanced approach to the brand's decorative penchant. Key elements included reimagined paisley prints, soft-tailored suits, and relaxed silhouettes. The collection featured a range of neutral tones, inspired by the Tuscan landscape. The collection exuded a sense of controlled sophistication, moving away from the "flamboyant wanderer" aesthetic towards a more composed gentlemanly style.
Streetwear brand PDF
The Milanese streetwear brand PDF has quickly made a name for itself, attracting a roster of celebrity clients that includes racing driver Lewis Hamilton and rapper Central Cee. Founded by Domenico Formichetti, PDF is one of the up-and-coming labels to watch in the fashion scene. Another noteworthy name is Simon Cracker, a Milanese label established by Filippo Biraghi and Simone Botte that focuses on upcycling. As one of the brand's guiding philosophies states, "It's about abolishing classist thinking and clichés and having a voice."
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