Pasticceria Klainguti located in the historic center of Genoa, has reopened after nearly five years of renovation. Renowned for its delicacies crafted by Michel Paquier, the pastry shop is back after a long wait. This reopening, on Thursday, June 19, at 8 AM, marks the return of a beloved institution established in 1828 by Swiss brothers. Klainguti has long been a cultural crossroads, where the aroma of fresh brioches has accompanied conversations and daydreams. Giuseppe Verdi praised the hazelnut cream krapfen at this spot, saying, “Thank you for the Falstaff. Very good! Much better than mine.” The original note is a family relic held by the Klainguti heirs, while the Douce Group, led by pastry chef Michel Paquier and partner Carlo Ponte, carries on this cherished legacy. But why do I undertake such an expensive project? "We acquired Klainguti with a spirit of service, ensuring that a piece of Genoa's history would not be erased or, worse, counterfeited," explains Ponte, assuring us: "It will not be an old-style version of Douce; it will be the original Klainguti."
The key element is a small paper treasure: the original recipe book from the Klainguti family in Switzerland, dating back to the early twentieth century. Michel Paquier and his team, guided by renowned Roman pastry chef Marco Rinella, studied this detailed book, which even included food costs. "It was surprising," says Paquier with his French accent. "We aimed to stay faithful to the original while making necessary adjustments." The goal was to respect original flavors while modernizing them. "Tastes have evolved; forty years ago, a custard had 400 grams of sugar per litre; today, it's 150. We focused on reducing sugar and enhancing raw materials and techniques." The most exciting discovery was the Torta Zena cream. Initially worried about heavy buttercream, the recipe features a crème mousseline—a lighter custard whipped with cold butter. Improved Marsala adds aroma without overwhelming alcohol taste.
Similarly, Portantur is a soft amaretto-filled treat, likened to a less sweet macaron, offering a modern twist. The Patatina, a biscuit with zabaglione cream wrapped in pink marzipan, shifted Paquier's initial prejudices when he realized the potential of high-quality, low-sugar almond paste. The famous Falstaff is as a simple brioche filled with Langhe hazelnuts, using sourdough for lightness, topped with icing and caramelized hazelnuts for added crunch and shine. Breakfast at Klainguti features Italian pastries like brioches and Falstaff, along with traditional Genoese treats such as gobeletti and canestrelli to elevate the biscuit shop experience.
A delightful addition is ice cream, with three varieties, truffles including Zena and Falstaff, and uniquely shaped sorbets called Clouds. The venue has a striking bar counter on the right and a pastry shop on the left, creating a welcoming atmosphere for enjoying Italian coffee or afternoon tea in a charming room adorned with artwork by Attilio Mangini. A small savory menu curated by an experienced barman is also available for lunch and aperitifs. There was no grand inauguration for Klainguti, which was reopened 200 years after its initial opening. Ponte and Paquier noted, "This is a reopening." The doors have opened, and history resumes in Soziglia as the long-absent scent returns to Genoa.
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