The dish introduced at Procaccini restaurant in Milan by chef Emin Haziri has sparked some controversy. He acknowledges, "I realize that the price is high, but this dish features raw materials with a very high food cost. . Consider the 10 grams of caviar and the three gold leaves. Even the guanciale is carefully selected; it comes from Cinco Jotas Iberian pork. The pasta is sourced from the Graziano pasta factory in Avellino." In Milan, carbonara is treated like gold, particularly with the dish named which costs 70 euros per serving. Emin Haziri prepares this luxurious take on carbonara at Procaccini Milano. "The idea is to create something that doesn't currently exist," explains the chef. He has added saffron, gold leaves, and white sturgeon caviar to the original recipe. Haziri spent less than six months perfecting the dish. "I had the ingredients clearly in mind; I just needed to find the right balance to bring out each element to perfection." The proposal is featured on the menu, alongside three tasting menus. Guests who wish can come in and order only the Carbondoro dish.
The price of the Carbondoro dish has sparked controversy since its TikTok debut. The chef responded, stating that labeling it as expensive overlooks its true value. He emphasizes that the cost reflects the team's hard work, meticulous research, and high-quality ingredients. This pricing represents a conscious investment in a culinary experience that challenges traditional norms, showcasing a commitment to both taste and the overall dining experience. Haziri, who recently turned thirty, has always wanted to accelerate his journey. He arrived in Italy from Kosovo on foot with his family and chose to attend the Hotel Institute. His first significant experience was an internship with Philippe Léveillé at a two-Michelin-star restaurant, where he lost 15 kilos in just two and a half months to keep up with the pace.At 18, he worked at Cracco and later became the head chef of second courses at Enrico Bartolini's restaurant. He also spent time at Villa Crespi and Noma in Copenhagen before going to France to learn sauce-making. At 25, his mentor Cannavacciuolo entrusted him with managing Cannavacciuolo Bistrot in Turin, where he developed a culinary vision that honors tradition while incorporating refinement, organization, balance, and creativity.
Haute cuisine often "revolutionizes" traditional carbonara. Valerio Braschi created a version meant for one swift shot, while Mauro Uliassi used fish eggs, cod tripe, and turbot skins. Heinz Beck added cream and zucchini, and Norbert Niederkofler offered a Tyrolean take with spelt fusilli, mountain cheese, and speck. Claudio Sacco's Au Koque carbonara features smoked ham and gin sauce. The price of a plate of pasta in Milan has also attracted attention; for example, chef Alberto Quadrio’s pasta in bianco was priced at 26 euros, which garnered attention for Portrait's restaurant, 10_11..
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