The recipes from the only known cookbook to have survived from the ancient Greco-Roman world, *De Re Coquinaria*, appear to look fairly familiar. Apicius (or De re coquinaria / De re culinaria) Cookbook is a collection of over 400 Roman cookery recipes translated into english. The book offers readers a fascinating picture of the dietary habits of the Romans and the people around the Mediterranean basin. The cookbook suggests that recipes such as pumpkin pie, French toast, and even foie gras may be much older than we previously thought, tracing back to the culinary traditions of ancient Rome. Apicius was an extremely wealthy Roman patrician who lived during the time of Emperor Tiberius, specifically during the years surrounding the crucifixion of Jesus. Like many of his contemporaries of similar social status, he was eccentric, and possibly cruel. After squandering his fortune, he reportedly took his own life. His recipe book is more a collection of notes than a systematic guide, reflecting the Roman love for food and flavors. It highlights the Roman preference for fish over meat and the importance of seasoning. Garum, a fish sauce made by fermenting blue fish innards, was a key condiment of the era, illustrating the culinary richness of Rome, which sourced ingredients from across the known world.
Outside of the lavish banquets of wealthy patricians, typical ancient Romans had three main meals: lentaculum (breakfast), prandium (lunch), and dinner. The first two were often neglected, with breakfast sometimes being just a glass of water and leftovers. Lunch typically featured bread with simple items like eggs, cheese, legumes, or garum residue, known as allec, which was widely consumed. Dinner was the most important meal of the day, and for many, it was the only substantial meal. At Rome's peak, with around a million inhabitants, only about 2,000 were considered wealthy. The majority lived in poverty, in small homes without basic amenities, relying on communal kitchens or taverns for food, often dining late in the evening (around 8 to 9 PM).
Spaghetti alla colatura di alici - Spaghetti with Anchovy Colatura
Garum is irreproducible and inedible by today's standards. However, there is a descendant of it (clearly more refined and free of innards or various rot), the anchovy colatura, which has become an expensive product loved by gourmets around the world. It is used very sparingly both for its price and for its very pronounced flavor. It is produced in Cetara, a town in the Salerno area and in Sicily.
Ingredients:
160 g of excellent quality spaghetti; three teaspoons of anchovy sauce; two cloves of garlic; ¼ of fresh chili pepper; freshly chopped parsley; the zest of half a lemon, without the white part; extra virgin olive oil
Preparation:
Boil the spaghetti in unsalted water; this is important. In a small pan, heat the oil and add garlic cut into rings (excluding the central core), along with whole lemon zest and finely chopped chili pepper. After a maximum of one minute, turn off the heat and let the mixture rest until the spaghetti is cooked. Once the oil is lukewarm, add the chopped parsley and remove the lemon zest. Mix everything into the pasta and, just before serving, season with the anchovy sauce. Stir and taste as you go, but since the sauce is quite salty, you will likely need no more than three teaspoons. If you prefer a stronger flavour, you can use a tablespoon. Give it one last mix and serve alongside a white seafood wine, such as Vermentino di Gallura.
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