Since the first generation of Gucci’s silk scarves in the 1950s, the fashion house has experienced significant evolution and reinterpretation of this couture item within the realms of fashion and art. Due to the influence of the Gucci House, silk scarves became not only accessories but also a medium for artistic expression.
Gucci's venture into silk began in 1958 when the House partnered with a silk producer from Como, Italy, to create the nautical-themed “Tolda di Nave,” their first collaborative scarf. This marked the start of Gucci's innovation in silk, with motifs inspired by the House’s signature leather goods and artisanal roots. In the 1960s, a creative collaboration with Vittorio Accornero de Testa elevated Gucci’s scarves to new heights, thanks to the renowned illustrator’s vibrant and imaginative creations.
The first Gucci scarf featured nautical themes, followed by prints celebrating leisure activities such as horseback riding and golfing. Each silk masterpiece measured 90 centimetres by 90 centimetres and had its edges meticulously gathered and stitched by hand, resulting in a distinctive rolled hem. Long before the arrival of digital printing, each colour was hand-screened, with some scarves requiring over 30 printing steps to complete their intricate designs. This was the beginning of the Florentine house’s long-standing association with innovation in silk.
Introduced in the 1960s, the Gucci silk scarf quickly became synonymous with a relaxed glamour that has transcended time and generations.
In particular, the Gucci Flora print scarf, created in 1966 by Italian illustrator Vittorio Accornero for Princess Grace of Monaco, also known as Grace Kelly, stands out.
The story began in 1966 when Princess Grace visited the Gucci boutique in Milan to purchase a leather handbag. As a gesture of gratitude, Rodolfo Gucci, the founder's son, commissioned Accornero to create a scarf in her honour. Named “Flora,” this elaborate design was completed in just one week. It features an intricate composition of bouquets containing lilies, poppies, anemones, and numerous other flowers, all accompanied by berries, butterflies, and insects. The detail of this illustration required the use of 37 distinct colors.
Accornero's inspiration may have come from Sandro Botticelli’s “La Primavera,” a Renaissance masterpiece that showcases sumptuous botanicals and the goddess Flora, which has been displayed in the nearby Uffizi Gallery since 1919. What began as a thoughtful gift from a prince to a princess became the iconic Gucci Flora scarf, distinctively commissioned by Rodolfo Gucci for Grace Kelly. This intricate masterpiece, illustrated by the renowned Vittorio Accornero, features 27 types of flowers along with berries, butterflies, and insects. Each of the 37 colours is applied meticulously in separate printing steps, a testament to Gucci’s exceptional silk craftsmanship that had begun in the 1950s.
The Nautical Motifs design draws from Gucci's initial maritime inspiration from the 1950s and became a significant influence on Gucci silks by the 1960s. The designs feature Animalia prints and the classic GG monogram, both of which reflect the accessories and collection pieces from 1969. Additionally, Gucci’s equestrian heritage from the 1950s is evident in the Gucci Web and Horsebit symbols. From 1960 to 1981, Accornero transformed silk into wearable art, creating 80 exquisite scarves. Since then, scarves have become a central aspect of Gucci’s identity. In addition to the iconic Flora and the original nautical motifs, the collection features Animalia prints, equestrian motifs, and the GG monogram, which first appeared on luggage.
Over the years, each creative director at Gucci has consistently reinterpreted these designs while maintaining their timeless appeal. Over the decades, each creative director at Gucci has brought their own interpretation to the classic floral, fauna, equestrian, nautical, and GG motifs. Frida Giannini revived scarf prints in the early 2000s, while Alessandro Michele reinvigorated the brand with pleated garden-print dresses and even dressed A$AP Rocky in a pink headscarf reminiscent of Princess Grace. This season on the runway, scarves are making a significant comeback, with three finale looks featuring floor-length trench coats paired with headscarves in vibrant fluorescent green, rich burgundy, and classic black. Additionally, this spring, nine contemporary artists—including Chinese artist Yu Cai and Milan-based illustrator Gio Pastori—have reimagined iconic Gucci prints for the label’s 90 x 90 project, incorporating the silk scarf into their interpretations of five key recurring themes. The book "Gucci: The Art of Silk" by Assouline, available in April 2025, charts the house’s rise through its exquisite scarves. It not only brings the 90 x 90 project to life but also features never-before-seen imagery from Gucci’s atelier.
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